So which one are we now? A rectangle, triangle or hourglass? In the current climate of ever changing styles and with such a fast turnaround from catwalk to high street, fashion is struggling to define an era. What do the noughties say about us? When we look back, what will be the defining shape and style of our time?

Fashion goes in cycles and what used to be a treasured vintage find from our parents wardrobes can now be found from our very own, recycled and reborn (from really not that long ago). All we need now is a very large wardrobe rather than fashion hoarding parents. Yes, each year there is a new twist, there is always, say the ‘new’ wide leg trouser. But, we also all know that everything can be updated with a fabulous accessory.

• Turn of the century was an hourglass moment. Women were the chattels of men and had the sloping shoulders (sign of weakness) and large hips and stomachs (indicating fertility) to prove it. If you wanted to look hot, you didn’t tan (only the working classes worked outdoors) and your lilly white skin was accompanied with a lot of ‘junk in the trunk’. Being fatter signaled wealth, much like the paler skin and those ladies who didn’t get to always lunch wore padding and bustles to emphasise their lower proportions. Breasts were presented on shelves, to again reinforce how great the ladies were at bearing children.

• The twenties and thirties were all about the rectangle. Women were striving for liberation and equality with men, resulting in a more ‘masculine’ shape being the most fashionable. Broad shoulders were desired and women often bound their breasts to achieve the straight up and down ‘flapper’ style, eschewing any definition of waists and hips. Women also wore trousers for the first time, suffragettes reinforced the politics and styling. Despite the tailoring of any outfits not distinguishing feminine attributes, the materials were still very female using silks and lots of beaded embellishments.

• The war years of the forties were all about the triangle (inverted). As the men went off to war, the ladies took up the mantle of working the factories, offices and fields. Big shoulders on a woman signaled capability/strength and as a result, shoulder padding for jackets was in big demand. Women often became the sole providers, the male and female parent to the children and their look mirrored this. Their bodies became split, almost in two parts. On the top half was bulky, masculine and strong with the bottom half having a tiny waist, rounded hips and a tight skirt. As cloth was limited, skirts became short for the first time and having nice shapely calves was the most important feature (previously only ankles were visible). Fabrics were harder wearing and cheaper due to rationing.

• In the fifties it was back to being at home and an hourglass for the ladies. Despite keeping the country running while the boys were away, the girls were sent back to the house to look after the heroes and have babies to boost the lost population. Breasts became very important and bra-engineering was invented to give women the best uplift ever. Curvy, ‘child bearing’ hips and rounded stomachs were considered sexy. Women were being cared for by men again, like children – even to the point where grown women wore pony tails, frilly petticoats and ankle socks. Materials were more readily available and the skirts as a contrast to the forties became voluminous. It was a very girly image in comparison to the ladylike turn of the century when the hourglass was last in vogue.

• The return of the rectangle was during the sixties, as the advent of ‘the pill’ gave women sexual freedom and prompted the movement for equality and liberation to rise again. The ideal form returned to the androgynous twenties style with straight shoulders, flat chests, no waistline, flat hips, stomachs and thighs. Huge technological advances saw the rise of new fabrics such as nylon and PVC, and fashion was influenced heavily by the moon landing, becoming ‘futuristic’ For the first time in the century, everyone had enough to eat, so looking well fed meant nothing. Dieting began as every women attempted to fit the new physical ideal and wear the most challenging materials yet in a flattering way.

• The seventies was back to hourglass (albeit a softer outline). As this generation rejected the consumerism and excesses of the previous generation, ‘make love, not war’ meant that society became more spiritual. The previous symbols of fertility such as breasts, hips and stomachs were back in fashion. Eastern influences on women’s appearance were strong, long flowing hair coloured with henna. Voluminous kaftans were a relief for those women still struggling with the dieting to fit the fashions from the previous decade. Materials became more ‘natural’ and softer.

• The inverted triangle returned for the eighties as society saw a boom in the economy. Women were encouraged to buy houses, start businesses and combine motherhood with a career. ‘Superwoman’ had arrived, and like the forties, took the world upon her again padded shoulders. This time women were not allowed the curvy hips and bottoms though and were expected to be incredibly fit and toned. Clothing became very body conscious and brightly coloured to command attention to accompany the capable shoulders.

The nineties/noughties has bucked the trend and we have yet to repeat this cycle in such a definite shape. Each year we often see all three of the silhouettes twisted for each season. We’ve finally seen women start to define themselves most appropriately as individuals, choosing the shape that best suits them rather than aligning themselves with the politics of that decade. It also means that designers have now got the freedom to design creatively rather than attempting to distinguish themselves within the confines of that decades style.

Added to this the rise of specialists such as style consultants, giving women the inside track on being both fashionable and dressed to suit their own figures, and we have a very new woman.

The question is not whether we’re a triangle, rectangle or hourglass, but in the UK , each woman should ask “What am I today?” McQueen, Westwood, McCartney, Jackson, Galliano, Smith………………………………..

Chameleon Fridays